(written monday, june 22, 2009)

I tried to get pictures up today, but it didn’t work…this internet thing in a “third world country” (at least one where per capita income is only $450/year) is absolutely killing me…pathetic, I know.

So we went to dinner last night at Russell’s house. I was thrilled to be having dinner at a Ghanaian friend’s house on my third night already (even though we eat at our house EVERY night, which is technically Ghanaian as well). I kind of thought it was too good to be true. I mean Russell has been great and all, but I’ve always been a bit of a skeptical traveler and usually expect some sort of not so upfront incentive behind REALLY kind gestures.

The dinner was lovely really: spicy fried chicken, fried plantains (my favorite), pineapple, and red, tomatey rice. I couldn’t help but feel somewhat guilty that here sit 5 Americans and 1 British guy -- each with enough money to buy a plane ticket to Ghana -- in a massive, but empty concrete house in Ghana with nothing but a couch, a small tv, a table, and some chairs, ready to eat a huge meal prepared for them, while the aunt, uncle and cousin who actually live there looked on.

I think we all felt a bit uncomfortable but we eventually convinced Uncle James to join us, and I got the pleasure of sitting next to him and sharing a Star. He told me all about the four main women of his life (his girlfriend, his mother, his sister, and his wife – I guess his daughter didn’t quite make the cut). As soon as we finished eating, James made a signal to Russell to bring out something. Russell disappeared into another room and re-emerged with “Awake” pamphlets from the Jehovah’s Witness church (the brochures were printed in London, gee thanks a lot England -- don’t you think you’ve done enough for Ghana already?!). Each of us received one, but neither Uncle James nor Russell really pushed us into talking about it. I was extremely relieved when shortly thereafter, Russell brought out the Mancala set and we spent the rest of the evening taking turns playing instead.

Today (Monday) I went to The Guide, a local newspaper, where my roommate is an intern. As the reporters filtered in, the office got much more loud and hectic. The loudest though seemed to be Halafax who shortly after arriving questioned his boss, the editor, really loudly (I mean REALLY loudly) about how his weekend was and if he had tried any of that “old man sex?” This, of course, is one of the men I have to interview eventually…I think I will need some time to prepare.

I ate lunch in the Canteen at the paper…some of the young lady reporters helped me to make my choice of okrah soup with meat. I used a gooey corn dough (called banku I think). I provided a good deal of messy entertainment to the rest of the eating staff, but I loved it. A good food adventure can never get old.

After lunch, I decided I had had enough of the non-functioning internet and that I would be brave and go off exploring by myself. I had chosen three places from my guide to find: Ghana Films where they show African movies (duh), Afrikiko Restaurant to ask about Salsa class and the Tourist info center. After about two hours, too much sweat to mention, and the making of several new friends, I had found only the Afrikiko restaurant and unfortunately there are no longer classes anyhow. They directed me to the Coconut Grove (a really nice hotel) where there is “Salsa club” on Wednesdays from 7 to 10pm, but the nice man at the front desk assured me that if we came a half hour early they would quickly teach us the steps so we could then dance at the club…he certainly is an optimist.

On our commute home I met a man from one of the big TV stations here. He invited me to come visit him at work and meet the reporters…I may eventually take him up on the offer. The commute was terribly long (over 2 hours) so we had a long time to get to know each other. As I seem to be learning over and over again, Ghanaians are genuinely hospitable people and making a friend on the bus or the street is really not so out of the ordinary and considering I have so few here, I am quite grateful for this.

(from today)

Yesterday, I went to La General Hospital where my friend, Matt, is volunteering in pediatrics. The pediatrics unit is very small with maybe 12 beds or so and probably 30+ patients (the kids are alarmingly tiny so as many as 3 of them were in a single bed). Most of the kids are from Osu orphanage and so I am thinking I might volunteer at the hospital holding the babies once a week, but I have to see if that is possible. Healthcare is free, which is good, but the hospital was crowded and the surgery unit for pediatrics is a table in the hallway.

After the hospital we headed to the arts market b/c Maddie leaves Thursday and wanted souveniors. I am always up for shopping so decided to tag along. I am grateful I did, because a). I got a mancala set and b). Matt taught me how to bargain. He told me to cut every offer the seller makes down by a factor of 10 and then work your way up. I really can't do it, because I feel bad and I ended up paying more than Maddy for a few things knowingly.

I made friends with Charles and he took me to the back of the market where all the crafts are made and then I played mancala with Kwevi, while I waited for Maddie to finish her shopping. I am already feeling MUCH MUCH more comfortable getting around the city and using the tro-tros or makeshift vans that take us in and out of the city.

Now, I just need to work on my suntan as I appear pasty in all the pictures and even though I don't feel so white, people calling out "Obruni" and "White man" everywhere I go serves as a constant reminder.

Tonight is a couple of my new friends' last night (already) and they want to go to the hookah bar AGAIN :(. Tomorrow I am off to the University of Ghana to meet the cousin of a childhood teammate and talk to professors there. It will be my first totally alone transportation adventure and I feel totally ready for it!